Garment sleeve facing



Aug. 2, 1949. B. LIEBOWITZV I 2,477,313

I GARMENT SLEEVE FACING Filed June 4, 1947 2 Sheets-Sheet-l IN V EN TOR.

6AU4MIN [lawn 171 Aug. 2, 1949. B. LIEBOWITZ I GARMENT SLEEYE FACING 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed June 4, 1947 z M m we N6 1 M M M M 5 Patented Aug. 2, 1949 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 8 Claims.

r This invention relates to a garment sleeve facing and method of making same, and more particularly to a facing for the sleeves of mens and boys outer shirts.

V The various types of sleeve facings currently used on mens and boys shirts all have several defects or disadvantages. The types of facing commonly employed on the better grades of shirts are uneconomical to manufacture, and have a tendency to gape or open-up to an objectionable extent. While proposals .have been made to reduce the cost of manufacture, they have offered merely a negligible economyin production or have resulted in facings that have a crude and unsatisfactory appearance. The cheaper facings heretofore used have also been, among other things, subject to the objection of gaping and in some instances even to a more marked extent.

The primary object of this invention is to provide a sleeve facing that has a neat, attractive, and Workmanlike appearance that is consonant with the generally accepted standards of good shirtmaking practice, but which is economical to produce.

Another object of the invention is to provide a facing construction that will reduce the tendency of the faced sleeve vent to gape or spread in wear.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent to those skilled in the shirtmaking art from the following description thereof,

reference beinghad to the accompanying drawings, in which the several views are moreor less,

diagrammatic and not drawn to scale. I Fig. 1 is a fragmentary view of a piece of shirt ing materialcut in the shape of a sleeve and provided with a vent or slit;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a. strip of facing material;-

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary view of a sleeve showing the initial stitching of the facing to the edges of on the line 44 of 2 modified manner of stitching the folded facing; and,

Fig. 10 is a view of another modification in the stitching of the facing.

Referring to the drawings, It represents a piece of shirting material cut to the shape of a sleeve, and having a relatively straight, raw, lower edge H to which the cuff is subsequently attached. A slit I2 is cut in the material to form the sleeve vent. As shown in Fig. 1, the slit is preferably oblique as distinguished from the usual perpendicular slit, but in some instances it may be cut perpendicularly.

When the slit is cut obliquely the edge of the upper-facing of the finished vent will extend perpendicularly, as shown in Fig. 8, but when it is cut perpendicular said edge will extend obliquely. It is therefore better practice to cut the slit at an angle to the perpendicular of about six to seven degrees, more or less, or, in terms of magnitude, with the lower end of the slit spaced approximately five-eighths of an inch from a perpendicular projected from the upper end of the slit. The length of the slit is usually from five to six inches, but this may be varied as desired. The use of an oblique slit is particularly desirable with striped shirting fabric having vertical stripes, as in that case the edge of the upper-facing of the finished sleeve vent will extend substantially parallel to the stripes. In several of the figures of the drawing one such stripe is represented by the line l3.

The facing I4 is formed of a long, relatively narrow, strip of fabric which is doubled over lengthwise and formed with infolded lateral edges [5. The length of the facing strip is approximately equal to or slightly greater than twice the length of the slit l2 to which it is to be applied, and it may, in unfolded condition, conveniently be about one and a half inches wide to allow for a satisfactory finished width after doubling over and inturning its edges. Strips of such length and width may be formed of the material that is cut out in shaping the armholes or other parts of the shirt, and that might otherwise go to waste. While the facing strip is preferably made of a single length, it may be made of two lengths joined together. The vent formed by the slit [2 is opened out substantially in a straight line, as indicated in Fig. 3, and the facing strip M is attached to the edges of the slit by stitching l 6, in a manner well known in the shirtmaking art. The material about the faced slit is then folded over on itself to provide a lower faced portion or leg I! and an upper faced portion or 3 leg l'8. In the folding operation, as indicated in Fig. 5, a portion of the material including the upper faced leg I8 is itself turned under the sleeve from a point at approximately the center of the opened out slit shown in Fig. 3. It will be noted that in turning under the leg IS an inturned portion IQ of gore-like shape is formed which is somewhat wider at its lower end than at its upper end. The act of folding and creasing said inturned portion I5 forms a pleat 2| in the material above the vent, the edge 22 of which pleat forms in substance a continuation of the crease 23 formed by said inturned portion;

To guide the operator in forming the folded portion 19 a small notch 24 may be-cut in the edge ll of the sleeve material, or other suitable mark provided. The notch is so positioned that when the lower corner of the edge 25 of the underfolded faced leg I8 is brought to it, as seen in Fig. 5, the crease 23 of said folded part, which constitutes the overlapping vent edge of the finished sleeve, will extend substantially perpendicular to the lower edge I I of the sleeve, and in'the case of striped material, substantially parallel to the stripes.

In. folded condition the inner edge 25' of the facing leg i8 is not parallel to the fold orcrease 23 but makes an angle therewith as shown in Figs. 5 and 6. Moreover, in that condition said leg lies under and is concealed by the outer portion 26 of the material of the overlapping vent edge.

The advantages of the vent construction in which the faced leg I8 is underfolded at a slant are that it provides a finished vent of neat appearance the overlap edgeof which is approximately vertical; it providesthe necessary overlap as required by the cuff itself without causing any unwanted distortion in the material when the cuff is buttoned; and, that it permits of an increased lap and thus lessens the tendency of the facing to gape on the wearer; Within the limits of the design, the lap may 'be made as large as desired.

The two legs of the facing are secured in their folded position, and the pleat 2| is fastened down, by suitable stitching such as the bar tack 21. In their. initially folded condition, it is not necessary that the two legs should be in accurate registry or in superposed relation. In fact, it. is preferable that the lower leg l1 shouldextend somewhat inward of the upper or outer leg, as is illustrated on an exaggerated scale in Fig. 7. On referring to that figure, itwill also be noted that the facing of both legs extend in the same direction due to the fact that the faced upper edge of the vent is inturned. When the legs are stitched or tacked in such relative position they will tend to maintain their offset condition and thus further. reduce any tendency of the facing to gapeon the wearer.

The cuff 28 is finally set on the sleeve in the usual manner and secured thereto by one or more rows of stitching 29. setting seam together with the bar tack are sufficient to hold the parts in their folded state so that they will not be deformed in laundering, additional stitching may be provided for that pur pose. For example, one instance of such additional stitching is indicated in Fig. 9 where a line of stitching 30 is formed through the facing 18 and the overlying material that constitute the overlap vent edge 23. In this instance the stitches are run parallel to said edge, although if desired they may be run parallel to the edges of the While ordinarily the cufi.

4 facing. In either case the stitching may be completed by a short transverse section 3| in lieu of the bar tack 21.

Figure 10 illustrates a modification wherein the two legs of the facting are secured together at their upper end by blind stitching that is invisible in the finished faced vent construction. In this case, after the facing strip H! has been applied as shown in Fig. 3, the sleeve material is turned over and the strip-is folded on itself, whereupon the folded parts of the strip are secured by stitching 32, preferably extending in a slanting direction as shown. Thereafter, the sleeve material is again turned face up, and the construction of the vent is proceeded with in the manner hereinbefore described except for omission of the bar tack 21. In this modified construction the bar tack is unnecessary as the stitching 32. effects substantially the same result.

It will be understoodthat where the invention is applied to the vents of shirts ofthe detached cuff type, a Wrist band'may besubstituted for the cuff 28, and'that other. and. further modifications and changes may be made within the scope ofthe invention as claimed.

While I have illustrated and described. the facing construction with particular reference to its use for facing the vent ofa shirt sleeve, it may be employed for facing the vents or plackets of other garment parts.

What I claim is:

1. In a garment having a vent, a facing strip securedto the edges. of the'vent,.said faced edge portions being doubled over to form an.underfacing and an upper-facing that overlap, the under-facing being unfolded, the upper-facing being underfolded along an oblique line extending from the top to the bottom. of the vent to provide an underfolded portion of substantially triangular shape that is'wider along its lower edge than at its upper end, and stitches adjacent the upper end of the vent securingthe upper-facing and the under-facing intheir lapped relation.

2. In a garment having a vent, a facing strip secured to the edges of thevent, said faced edge portions being doubled over to form an underfacing and an upper-facing that overlap, the under-facing being unfolded, the upper-facing being underfolded along an oblique line extending from the top to the bottom of the vent to :provide an underfolded portion of substantially triangular shape that is wider along its lower edge than at its upper'end, and stitches securing the upper-facing and the under-facing in'their lapped relation.

3. In a garment having-a vent, a facing strip secured to the edges of the vent, one faced edge of the vent overlapping the other faced edge thereof, the under-faced vent portion being unfolded, the upper-faced vent portion having an underfolded part that includes the facing strip of said portion, the facing strip of said last-mentioned portion extending at a slant to the folded edge of said' portion, and' stitches securing the faced vent portions in lapped relation.

4. In a garment having a vent, a facing strip secured to the edges of the vent, one faced edge of the vent overlapping the other faced edge thereof, the under-faced vent portion being unfolded, the upper-faced vent portion having anunderfolded part that includes the facing strip of said portion, said underfolded part being wider at its bottom than at its top, a pleat in the material at and above the. upper end of the vent, the folded edge of said pleat constituting a prolongation of the folded edge of said upper-faced vent portion, and stitches adjacent the upper end of the vent fastening the pleat and securing said faced vent portions in lapped relation.

5. In a garment having a vent, a facing strip secured to the edges of the vent, a portion of the material at one faced edge of the vent overlapping a portion of the material at the other faced edge thereof, the outer lapping portion having an underfolded part that includes the facing of the edge of said portion, the extent that the two faced portions of the vent overlap being greater at the lower end of the vent than at the upper end thereof and decreasing substantially uniformly from the bottom to the top of the vent, and stitches adjacent the upper end of the vent securing said faced vent portions in such lapped relation.

6. In a garment sleeve having a vent in its lower end, a facing strip secured to the edges of the vent, a portion of the material at one faced edge of the vent overlapping a portion of the material at the other faced edge thereof, the under-faced vent portion being unfolded, the upper-faced vent portion having an underfolded part that includes the facing of the edge of said portion, said underfolded part being wider at its bottom than at its top, a pleat in the material at and above the upper end of the vent, the folded edge of said pleat constituting a prolongation of the folded edge of said upper-faced vent portion, stitches adjacent the upper end of the vent fastening the pleat and securing said faced vent por- 7. In a garment sleeve, an oblique vent slit in the lower end of the sleeve, a facing strip secured to both edges of the vent, one of the faced vent portions overlapping the other, the overlapping vent portion having an underfolded part that includes the facing at the edge thereof, the line of the fold of said overlapping portion extending substantially perpendicular to the lower edge of the sleeve to provide an underfolded part that is wider at the lower end of the vent than at its upper end, and stitches adjacent the upper end of the vent securing the faced vent portions in such lapped relation.

8. In a garment sleeve, an oblique vent slit, a narrow facing strip extending about the edges of the vent slit, the facing strip being doubled upon itself at the top of the vent to form inner and outer faced vent portions that lap each other, the outer lap portion being underfolded, said underfold being wider at the bottom of the vent than the width of the facing strip and tapering towards the top of the vent, the inner faced vent portion being unfolded and being overlapped by the outer underfolded vent portion to the extent of the tapered underfold.

BENJAMIN LIEBOWITZ.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 785,124 Schneider Mar. 21, 1905 2,003,217 Oathout May 28, 1935 2,080,873 Pearse May 18, 1937 

